Uncovering The White Washed Towns Of Malaga Province
Perhaps Malaga province is best known for its whitewashed towns, but wander higher to find the more traditional and pretty ones. In the hills you will find delightful pueblos. Some bear the name of ‘Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos’, and number up to 60 in total. If you are not staying in Casares Apartments then it is well worth the journey to the area.
For a lightening tour take in Casares, travelling via Manilva on the MA 539, the Gaucin road. Or from Bahia Casares and past the Casares Del Sol complex . Casares rises dramatically from a gorge. The view from the top of the village looking over the houses is breathtaking and is one of the most photographed villages in Spain!
On the steep approach road you will see viewpoints from where in the right conditions you can witness peregrine falcons and kestrels soaring on thermals.
Casares is steeped in history and has Roman and Moorish influences. At the top is a Moorish Fort. The museum, albeit small is well worth a trip. Keep an eye out for the metal gate in the churchyard from where captive soldiers from the Spanish civil war were reputedly tossed unceremoniously into the gorge.
From the peak of Casares one can see the loft heights of the Sierra Bermeja and in the other direction the valley of the Rio Genal.
Casares is best approached on foot heading down from the top of the village by the Restaurant La Terraza. The food and wine is excellent, but you will have to pay tourist prices. Park your car either by a bar or at the car park on the bend, (you will see the Casares dust cart parked there) and climb down one of the footpaths that lead into the village.
On the way down marvel at the way the locals have adapted. For example they have placed bench seats out with the ‘up slope’ legs cut short so that one sits level whilst resting!
Pause awhile in the main square, Plaza de España. Visit the statue of Blas Infante, named to commemorate the Andalucía Nationalist Leader killed at the start of the civil war by Franco’s rebels. His birthplace in Calle Carrera now serves as a museum and tourist office.
The steep climb is worth it to the old fortress (the base of the walls are Moorish but above head height is dated after 1500), and Iglesia de la Encarnación church 400 metres above sea level for dramatic views. The church built in 1505, last used in 1845 and damaged in the Civil war 1936-39 is presently being lovingly restored.
To get there follow the narrow road adjacent to the Virgin del Rosario chapel. Visit on a clear day and you may well be rewarded with a view of the African coast and Gibraltar.
Near to the church is the Hermitage of Vera Cruz with its domed alcove which may have served as an altar room. Look for the bullet holes! During the civil war captured enemies were hurled to their deaths. Look out across the gorge looking right of Restaurant la Teraza, a simple iron cross marks and remembers yet another civil throwing site.
Throughout the summer months Casares hosts outdoor entertainment which is completely free of charge. In the last two years we have spent delightful time with friends watching Argentian and Russian dance troupes. Keep an eye on the local papers or ask at the tourist office. The village is lit all night in coloured lights and makes for a beautiful backdrop.
On the Gaucin road you will see approximately one mile away from a small track through farm land. This was once the main route to Jimena and San Martin. Drive slowly over bumps and you will end up in ruined sections of wall which are the remains of the Iberian and Roman town of Lacipo. Founded in the 2nd century BC its wealth was built on live oil, but sadly it declined in 2nd century AD.
There is plenty of suitable rental properties in which to stay to tour the area, stay at Villas in Casares Del Sol or Benalmadena.
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